Hello all,
After our tough time at the boarder we stayed a few days in the Town of Siem Reap which was our base camp for visting the temple of Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples as well. Our first day in town we ended up just sleeping in and taking it easy. We needed some rest after our 27 hours of being on the road and sleeping on a night train. In the evening of day 1 we took a trip out to the tallest temple in the region and watched the sunset over the temples and countryside. Cambodia is much flatter then Laos or Thailand, the weather has also been getting hotter. I thinks its a combonation of us moving southwards and we are also getting towards the hot season of the region.
On day 2 we hired a driver/ tourguide for the day and split the cost with an Austrian guy we met at the boarder. So $15 divided by 3 is $5 each for a full day driver and tour guide. Not bad. He picked us up at 5:30 AM and we went to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. As with so many other things we have seen and experienced on this trip no words can summarize how amazingly beautiful the temple is. The sheer size, the vast amounts of labor it took, the engineering, and the attention to detail is overwealming. It shows what humans are capable of if they take their love for their religeon and channel it into good and constructive endevours. On day 2 we ended up seeing Angkor Wat, Bayon, and the overgrown temple (forgot its name) that was the setting for the movie Tomb Raider. This was our favorite temple of the day since it mixes the beauty of man and nature. It was a very full day and we all went home exhausted.
Day 3 we arranged to be picked up at 9:00. This gave us a chance to sleep in. Our Austrian friend decided that 1 day of temples was enough for him, so Heather and I set off with our driver. We ended up seeing more of the remote and less visited temples. Some of them also grown over by the forrest. I should also note that all the temples including Angkor Wat have been weathered over time by the elements, and have also been vandalized by the Khmer Rouge. They removed all the heads off the Buhda statues and carvings, and also used some temples for target practice. All cambodian monks were executed by the KR as well. All this in the name of a perfect communist society.
Mixed with the splendor and beauty of Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, we also saw the deep sorrow and despair that still thrives in Cambodia. You can get accustomed to the men and women who have missing legs due to the mines. Seeing the children who are often the victoms is much harder to face. The bamboo constructed orphanages that need to support themselves by selling the childrens artwork, the homeless and the needy is very sureal when juxtaposed with the large Japanese tour groups, and western backpackers. Seeing it day to day becomes very hard. You would have to entirely detatch yourself from all human emotion to not be moved by it all. Heather and I finally broke on our last day near the temples. In our freshly washed western clothes and our personal driver we drove past the local childrens hospital ( the only one in Northern Cambodia) out front waited maybe 100 babies and their nervous mothers waiting to be seen by a doctor. They sometimes wait for 2 days to get in. There is a epedemic of Dengue Fever that is hitting the kids especially hard. The KR executed all the doctors and educated Cambodians in their attempt at a totally eaqual pesant nation. So the hospital totally relies on Foriegn Doctors. Our driver told me that the childern come from very far away, many days journey to be seen. Heather and I finally broke down.
We knew that the journey for us would not always be easy. We have experienced the entire range of human emotion in the last couple months. So far Cambodia has been a very heavy experience for us. We needed a break. Yesterday we took the express bus south and we are now in Shionokville. Its a beach side town with all the luxaries that we need, but at Cambodian prices. We will probably rest here for a week before heading up to Phom Phen for a few, then off to Vietnam.
To end this post on a more positive note I will share our experience of the express bus misadventure. After having been on it for maybe 10 minutes the fan belt broke and the engine overheated. We had to pull over and call for a replacement fan belt to be brought out. After maybe 20 minutes a motor bike pulls up with a new fan belt. Well it was actully only new to us, it was a used fan belt with a large split in it. With no choice but to put it on the driver installed it. He first took his lighter our and tried to melt the split belt back together. He fired the old bus up and within maybe 20 secconds the engine started throwing pieces of rubber around and the belt broke. So after some more phone calls and staring at the engine a man showed up with a piece of rope or cord. It was a thin strong cord like they use on parachutes. One of the locals standing next to me told me that this was not and uncommon repair but usually only for small engines not a large bus. He also told me that this bus was Chineese made and they are always totally crappy. He tries to ride on only Japanese made buses. So they ended up tieing this cord around the pulleys and after sinching it really tight and burning the ends so it wouldnt fray they fired up the engine. It seemed to work OK but it due to the large knot it was off ballance and made alot of noise. The driver rightfully decided this was not a good fix.
So we waited another 20 minutes and a bus pulled up and out jumped the driver with a whole stack of belts. He dropped them on the ground and took off. Fortunately the correct belt was amoungst the tangle. After a few minutes we were off. And luckly for us it made it the whole way down.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Expanding Bladders and Shrinking Stomachs
So we have made it to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Yeah!!!! Only after 27 hours of straight travel and a, let's say, challenging border crossing. (By the way, Lonely Planet still sucks.)
We started of in Vientiane, Laos and borded the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge bus. A bus that takes about 1 1/2 hours and takes you through and across both borders. Once across the border back in Thailand we got on an overnight train. To save a few dollars we booked the fan sleeper car instead of the aircon...it really hasn't been that hot to need aircon. Well, go figure, when you pay for aircon you also get a nicer car with wider sleeping compartments. Since Chris doesn't really fit in the top compartment, I get to sleep up there. And I think those tracks haven't been maintained since they were built. We rocked and rolled the whold night. Luckily they have these seatbelt saftey straps that keep you in locked in, otherwise I would have landed straight...flop...on the floor. Let's just say I maybe slept 3 hours. So at 5:30 in the a.m. they get everyone up by yelling "orange juice, orange juice". I think they should sing a lovely good morning song like my mom sang to me. Geez!!
So off the train and on to food!! We hadn't eaten a good meal for at least 14 hours. Let the stomach shrinking begin. From there we took a taxi to the bus station and borded a bus to the Cambodian border. That bus was the nicest we've been on so far. A/C, decent leg room, no blaring music or dvd's, no funny smells, but for 5 hours they did not stop for food or the bathroom....and there was not bathroom on board. Begin, expanding bladders. Luckily I had packed some yogurt, nut, and fruit, so we survived. Once let off at the bus station, we ate...oh and I picked up a better fitting pair of army pants for $5. I needed a replacement.
Then a tuk-tuk to the Thai-Cambodian border. Things looked different immediately. People trying to sell us visas, umbrellas, and passports. We're pretty happy with what we've got, so we moved on. Check out was easy on the Thai side...then before you cross officially to Poipet, Cambodia...in no man's land. There are various casinos everywhere and people trying to "help" you. We made it to the visa window. There's a big sign that reads "Tourist Visa $20" and our book (the lovely Lonely Planet) confirmed it. Lonely Planet also said they'd take 1000 Baht...about $33 in thai money, but it's cheaper to use US....um, no. The visa folks refused to take US and wanted the Baht. What can you do? You're at their border, so we paid the Baht.
Next step, Immigration. That took almost 2 hours. Hot, sweaty and well, can you tell it was a fun line? I think this was the point that my fatigue started setting in and my mood began to change...and we still had a 3-5 hour ride to Siem Reap. In line we started talking with other Australian travelers about getting a share taxi to Siem Reap, because that's what the guide book says to do. It also says to ignore anyone trying to help you, but there is a free shuttle from the border to the bus station/ taxi stand. Well, we got on the "free shuttle" to find a bus or taxi...our Australian friends went with the bus. So our shuttle dropped us off at a tourist office where they wanted us to change money to Riel (the country opperates on US $$ and the ATM's even dispense US) and to go on their overcrowded bus or one of thier taxis. Ugghhh!! Then one guy that worked there told us to go around the corner and he'd arange a taxi for us for cheaper. By then we had picked up an Austrian traveler. So he starts telling us they overcharge for the bus and taxis there and after they get just a little out of town the taxi's and buses stop and demand more money from people. Whether to believe him or not? AAgghhh, again. Chris worked his international business skills magic, getting personal with the people, findig out about their families..etc.. and negotiated a fair price for the 3 of us, a relative of the drivers was coming with us and we were off. I was happy because it was getting dark and the whole border crossing had already taken about 4 hours. We never did find the real bus stop and taxi stand that book said was so easy to find. And mind you there was no toilet use or meals...really working on expanding that bladder and shrinking that stomach!! Welcome to Cambodia!!
The relative that came with us spoke English and worked for the Tourist Police, which really doesn't do anything as far as we can tell. He was part of this whole swindle. The road between Poipet and Siem Reap can be compared to the roads in Costa Rica, mostly unpaved, huge holes, many detours and incredibly dusty. At times it was like driving in Central Valley fog. Top that off with the dark, other cars, motorbikes, bicycles driving without lights...oh and our driving talking on the cellphone (something he really shouldn't do--almost took out 2 stopped motorbikes). It appears they are working on paving the road. It does have some patches of pavement and some patches of areas that are being graded...but it's a huge project.
We made one stop along the way where Chris made friends with a 12 year old local girl named Lisa selling postcards to help pay for her school, $5 a month. She wished us luck on our travels and we were off again. We dropped off our Tourist Police guy at his home just outside of Siem Reap and then we were in town. It's crazy how you go from dusty dirty roads to all of a sudden this row of huge luxury hotels. Our driver didn't speak english and didn't know his way around Siem Reap, so he pulled over and called a tuk-tuk. The tuk-tuk came got us and had a very nice, happy, and positive helper. They helped us find accomdations in our price range and wished us well.
Yeah, a soft bed. I couldn't be happier...oh a toilet too!!! We headed out for food but got stopped on the way out because they owner of our guest house was having a party. They instantly handed us glasses and started filling it with Johnny Walker and soda water..and wouldn't take no for an answer. We explained we needed food so they handed us some fresh spring rolls. Yum, whiskey on an empty stomach. After a dance or two, four spring rolls and many polite refusals on refills, we escaped and got some food.
With that last bit of kindess and hospitality I can really say....
Welcome to Cambodia.
We started of in Vientiane, Laos and borded the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge bus. A bus that takes about 1 1/2 hours and takes you through and across both borders. Once across the border back in Thailand we got on an overnight train. To save a few dollars we booked the fan sleeper car instead of the aircon...it really hasn't been that hot to need aircon. Well, go figure, when you pay for aircon you also get a nicer car with wider sleeping compartments. Since Chris doesn't really fit in the top compartment, I get to sleep up there. And I think those tracks haven't been maintained since they were built. We rocked and rolled the whold night. Luckily they have these seatbelt saftey straps that keep you in locked in, otherwise I would have landed straight...flop...on the floor. Let's just say I maybe slept 3 hours. So at 5:30 in the a.m. they get everyone up by yelling "orange juice, orange juice". I think they should sing a lovely good morning song like my mom sang to me. Geez!!
So off the train and on to food!! We hadn't eaten a good meal for at least 14 hours. Let the stomach shrinking begin. From there we took a taxi to the bus station and borded a bus to the Cambodian border. That bus was the nicest we've been on so far. A/C, decent leg room, no blaring music or dvd's, no funny smells, but for 5 hours they did not stop for food or the bathroom....and there was not bathroom on board. Begin, expanding bladders. Luckily I had packed some yogurt, nut, and fruit, so we survived. Once let off at the bus station, we ate...oh and I picked up a better fitting pair of army pants for $5. I needed a replacement.
Then a tuk-tuk to the Thai-Cambodian border. Things looked different immediately. People trying to sell us visas, umbrellas, and passports. We're pretty happy with what we've got, so we moved on. Check out was easy on the Thai side...then before you cross officially to Poipet, Cambodia...in no man's land. There are various casinos everywhere and people trying to "help" you. We made it to the visa window. There's a big sign that reads "Tourist Visa $20" and our book (the lovely Lonely Planet) confirmed it. Lonely Planet also said they'd take 1000 Baht...about $33 in thai money, but it's cheaper to use US....um, no. The visa folks refused to take US and wanted the Baht. What can you do? You're at their border, so we paid the Baht.
Next step, Immigration. That took almost 2 hours. Hot, sweaty and well, can you tell it was a fun line? I think this was the point that my fatigue started setting in and my mood began to change...and we still had a 3-5 hour ride to Siem Reap. In line we started talking with other Australian travelers about getting a share taxi to Siem Reap, because that's what the guide book says to do. It also says to ignore anyone trying to help you, but there is a free shuttle from the border to the bus station/ taxi stand. Well, we got on the "free shuttle" to find a bus or taxi...our Australian friends went with the bus. So our shuttle dropped us off at a tourist office where they wanted us to change money to Riel (the country opperates on US $$ and the ATM's even dispense US) and to go on their overcrowded bus or one of thier taxis. Ugghhh!! Then one guy that worked there told us to go around the corner and he'd arange a taxi for us for cheaper. By then we had picked up an Austrian traveler. So he starts telling us they overcharge for the bus and taxis there and after they get just a little out of town the taxi's and buses stop and demand more money from people. Whether to believe him or not? AAgghhh, again. Chris worked his international business skills magic, getting personal with the people, findig out about their families..etc.. and negotiated a fair price for the 3 of us, a relative of the drivers was coming with us and we were off. I was happy because it was getting dark and the whole border crossing had already taken about 4 hours. We never did find the real bus stop and taxi stand that book said was so easy to find. And mind you there was no toilet use or meals...really working on expanding that bladder and shrinking that stomach!! Welcome to Cambodia!!
The relative that came with us spoke English and worked for the Tourist Police, which really doesn't do anything as far as we can tell. He was part of this whole swindle. The road between Poipet and Siem Reap can be compared to the roads in Costa Rica, mostly unpaved, huge holes, many detours and incredibly dusty. At times it was like driving in Central Valley fog. Top that off with the dark, other cars, motorbikes, bicycles driving without lights...oh and our driving talking on the cellphone (something he really shouldn't do--almost took out 2 stopped motorbikes). It appears they are working on paving the road. It does have some patches of pavement and some patches of areas that are being graded...but it's a huge project.
We made one stop along the way where Chris made friends with a 12 year old local girl named Lisa selling postcards to help pay for her school, $5 a month. She wished us luck on our travels and we were off again. We dropped off our Tourist Police guy at his home just outside of Siem Reap and then we were in town. It's crazy how you go from dusty dirty roads to all of a sudden this row of huge luxury hotels. Our driver didn't speak english and didn't know his way around Siem Reap, so he pulled over and called a tuk-tuk. The tuk-tuk came got us and had a very nice, happy, and positive helper. They helped us find accomdations in our price range and wished us well.
Yeah, a soft bed. I couldn't be happier...oh a toilet too!!! We headed out for food but got stopped on the way out because they owner of our guest house was having a party. They instantly handed us glasses and started filling it with Johnny Walker and soda water..and wouldn't take no for an answer. We explained we needed food so they handed us some fresh spring rolls. Yum, whiskey on an empty stomach. After a dance or two, four spring rolls and many polite refusals on refills, we escaped and got some food.
With that last bit of kindess and hospitality I can really say....
Welcome to Cambodia.
Monday, February 18, 2008
A farewell to Laos
We are currently in Viantienne, the capital of Laos. We are moving on this afternoon to Bangkok via a bus across the boarder, then a overnight train. Once in Bangkok we travel via bus into Cambodia.
Since we last checked in with everyone we finished our time in Vang Vieng and participated in some of the watersports that they are know well for. We spent a wonderful day kayaking down the river enjoying the beautiful scenery and watching the day to day lives of the local fishermen that live along the banks. Heather and I had our own guide for the day, we even went by his house and got to meet his son. They live 6 people, representing 3 generations of family in a small bamboo framed house with a thatched roof. Very modest accomodations, and he makes a good living as a guide compared to the average local. Other local guides we met take the money they earn and pay for their brothers or sisters education. We had a wonderful day on the water and it was quite a work out as well. It left our arms and back muscles very sore for a couple days.
We also spent a day floating down the river in tubes. It's concidered a right of passage on the South East Asia backpacker circuit to tube down the Vang Vieng. If you havent floated in Laos and gotten the T-shirt, then you are not cool. So we decided to float, even thougth it was overcast and a little cool out. The tubing is very similar to the tubing in Chico. Their is a never ending string of tubes floating down the river and of course the locals being entrepenurial have set up many bars along the side of the river for the backpackers to stop at. The bars have all the usual attractions music, DJ's, and huge, huge, huge rope swings, zip lines, diving platforms, slides, etc.
The first bar is only 100 meters downstream from the starting point. Our Canadian friends started in the mid-morning, floated the 100 meters, got out at the first bar and stayed their till it was dark and had to take a taxi back into town. As you could imagine they were in rough shape but the Canadians seem to be a heartier breed then us when it comes to beer consumption.
We on the other hand made it to the 3rd or 4th bar downstread. Had a few Beer Lao (the only beer in Laos, but at $1 per 22 OZ why not have 3 or 4 for breakfast lunch and dinner) and with some new found Australian and English friends (notice the theme, we have met almost no Americans anywhere so far) we took to the rope swing. Heather went first and lived, this seemed to inspire everyone else to give it a try. It is hard to describe how totally insanely large this rope swing was. It wasnt built off a tree, no that would be too safe and small for this country. It was built off a huge platform made up of bamboo poles, old pallets, and some left over metal scraps for rigidity. After you climb up the 15-20 steps up to the top of the tower and look down you begin to wonder if you have just made a huge mistake. But of course a little liquid courage helps take the edge off. I can now attest to how hard water can be from 20-30 feet up. The impact mabe the bottom of my feet sore and shot water up my nose. It took me an hour or so to get it all out. It also tore Heathers swimsuit top and bottom off. So much fun.
After a couple hours at the bar we decided it would be a good idea to start floating back towards town. After about an hour of floating and seeing the sun setting we realized we might be in a bit of trouble. So with our new found friends from Australia we were able to get a local with a boat to fish us out and take us downstream into town. We gladly paid the $3 he wanted since it was cold and getting dark.
We left Vang Vieng and traveled here to Vientiene. It's the capital city and has to be the smallest capital I have ever been to. Not much to see or do here. We took the oportunity to mail another large package home full of merchandise we have purchased along the way. We also sent another CD home with pictures, so keep your eyes peeled on this website for that. Really Vientiene is stop over for travelers headed north or south.
So now our time in Laos is coming to an end. It has been a great experience and I hope someday to come back. No mix of words can adequately describe how great the people of this country are. It's as if they have something in life that we are missing out on, even though we, as westerners have so many material posessions, an abundance of food, and comparative wealth. It's this intangable spirit and glow within the populace that has made our experience here amazing.
Since we last checked in with everyone we finished our time in Vang Vieng and participated in some of the watersports that they are know well for. We spent a wonderful day kayaking down the river enjoying the beautiful scenery and watching the day to day lives of the local fishermen that live along the banks. Heather and I had our own guide for the day, we even went by his house and got to meet his son. They live 6 people, representing 3 generations of family in a small bamboo framed house with a thatched roof. Very modest accomodations, and he makes a good living as a guide compared to the average local. Other local guides we met take the money they earn and pay for their brothers or sisters education. We had a wonderful day on the water and it was quite a work out as well. It left our arms and back muscles very sore for a couple days.
We also spent a day floating down the river in tubes. It's concidered a right of passage on the South East Asia backpacker circuit to tube down the Vang Vieng. If you havent floated in Laos and gotten the T-shirt, then you are not cool. So we decided to float, even thougth it was overcast and a little cool out. The tubing is very similar to the tubing in Chico. Their is a never ending string of tubes floating down the river and of course the locals being entrepenurial have set up many bars along the side of the river for the backpackers to stop at. The bars have all the usual attractions music, DJ's, and huge, huge, huge rope swings, zip lines, diving platforms, slides, etc.
The first bar is only 100 meters downstream from the starting point. Our Canadian friends started in the mid-morning, floated the 100 meters, got out at the first bar and stayed their till it was dark and had to take a taxi back into town. As you could imagine they were in rough shape but the Canadians seem to be a heartier breed then us when it comes to beer consumption.
We on the other hand made it to the 3rd or 4th bar downstread. Had a few Beer Lao (the only beer in Laos, but at $1 per 22 OZ why not have 3 or 4 for breakfast lunch and dinner) and with some new found Australian and English friends (notice the theme, we have met almost no Americans anywhere so far) we took to the rope swing. Heather went first and lived, this seemed to inspire everyone else to give it a try. It is hard to describe how totally insanely large this rope swing was. It wasnt built off a tree, no that would be too safe and small for this country. It was built off a huge platform made up of bamboo poles, old pallets, and some left over metal scraps for rigidity. After you climb up the 15-20 steps up to the top of the tower and look down you begin to wonder if you have just made a huge mistake. But of course a little liquid courage helps take the edge off. I can now attest to how hard water can be from 20-30 feet up. The impact mabe the bottom of my feet sore and shot water up my nose. It took me an hour or so to get it all out. It also tore Heathers swimsuit top and bottom off. So much fun.
After a couple hours at the bar we decided it would be a good idea to start floating back towards town. After about an hour of floating and seeing the sun setting we realized we might be in a bit of trouble. So with our new found friends from Australia we were able to get a local with a boat to fish us out and take us downstream into town. We gladly paid the $3 he wanted since it was cold and getting dark.
We left Vang Vieng and traveled here to Vientiene. It's the capital city and has to be the smallest capital I have ever been to. Not much to see or do here. We took the oportunity to mail another large package home full of merchandise we have purchased along the way. We also sent another CD home with pictures, so keep your eyes peeled on this website for that. Really Vientiene is stop over for travelers headed north or south.
So now our time in Laos is coming to an end. It has been a great experience and I hope someday to come back. No mix of words can adequately describe how great the people of this country are. It's as if they have something in life that we are missing out on, even though we, as westerners have so many material posessions, an abundance of food, and comparative wealth. It's this intangable spirit and glow within the populace that has made our experience here amazing.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Gun Laws and Carpet Bombing
Snappy headline eh. So I am a little confused by the gun laws in this country. The police and military seem to be totally un-armed. But as you travel throught the countryside you see a few (4-5 a day) pesant looking farmers with dirty worn clothing and an AK-47 thrown over their solder and a vest full of ammo. Not sure what that is all about, but it would make most Texans jealous. Communism seems to have its benefits, semi-legalized marajuana, mushrooms, and opium, cheap massages, and the right to carry fully automatic weapons throughout the countyside with no restrictions.
So we took a 2 day side trip to the town of Ponsavan. It is located in the middle of the plane of jars region. The plane of jars is the Stonehenge of Asia. There are these huge jars, some of which are taller then me that are carved out of solid stone. They had to be transported here from far away since no stone of that size or type is available in the region. They date the jars to over 3000 years ago and the reason for them is still unknown. Everyone seems to have their theory, but they will probably never know.
The region is also know as having been the battleground for the Loation Civil war from 1960-1972. The area changed hands practically every year. The Russians backed one side and the USA backed the other. The scars of war are still evident everywhere. The US and Russians flew bombing missions and would carpet bomb the region back and forth. Everywhere you look for miles there are huge craters everywhere. So many bombs were droped that there still is quite a danger from unexploded ordenance. They are working full time at cleaning up the debris and predict it will be safe in 5 more years. While touring the plane of jars you have to stay on the marked path for fear of left over munitions.
The locals have become quite resoucefull in their usage of the left over debris of war. Here are some examples.
Helicoper door: Wall of a house
Tailgate from a shot down cargo plane: Bridge
Unexploded and defused 500LB bomb: cut in half and use as a planter, a bench, fenceposts, stilts for a house, decoration, etc.
Aluminum fusalage from shot down aircraft: melt down and make spoons
Helicoper prop: make into a bench
Tank turret: Chicken Coop
Army Helmet: use as a bucket
Tank wheels: wheels for a cart
Everywhere you look the signs of war are evident, except in the eyes, minds, and hearts of the people. This is a young country due to the mass casualties of the war and they seem eager to put it all behind them and enter the 21st century with no hard feelings. Laos is a county I would encourage everyone to visit. Its not necessarlly a vacation spot, more of an adventure. But the local people more then make up for any hardships the traveler may have to endure.
So we took a 2 day side trip to the town of Ponsavan. It is located in the middle of the plane of jars region. The plane of jars is the Stonehenge of Asia. There are these huge jars, some of which are taller then me that are carved out of solid stone. They had to be transported here from far away since no stone of that size or type is available in the region. They date the jars to over 3000 years ago and the reason for them is still unknown. Everyone seems to have their theory, but they will probably never know.
The region is also know as having been the battleground for the Loation Civil war from 1960-1972. The area changed hands practically every year. The Russians backed one side and the USA backed the other. The scars of war are still evident everywhere. The US and Russians flew bombing missions and would carpet bomb the region back and forth. Everywhere you look for miles there are huge craters everywhere. So many bombs were droped that there still is quite a danger from unexploded ordenance. They are working full time at cleaning up the debris and predict it will be safe in 5 more years. While touring the plane of jars you have to stay on the marked path for fear of left over munitions.
The locals have become quite resoucefull in their usage of the left over debris of war. Here are some examples.
Helicoper door: Wall of a house
Tailgate from a shot down cargo plane: Bridge
Unexploded and defused 500LB bomb: cut in half and use as a planter, a bench, fenceposts, stilts for a house, decoration, etc.
Aluminum fusalage from shot down aircraft: melt down and make spoons
Helicoper prop: make into a bench
Tank turret: Chicken Coop
Army Helmet: use as a bucket
Tank wheels: wheels for a cart
Everywhere you look the signs of war are evident, except in the eyes, minds, and hearts of the people. This is a young country due to the mass casualties of the war and they seem eager to put it all behind them and enter the 21st century with no hard feelings. Laos is a county I would encourage everyone to visit. Its not necessarlly a vacation spot, more of an adventure. But the local people more then make up for any hardships the traveler may have to endure.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
We move again tomorrow
So we've been in Vieng Vien for two days now and are loving it here. Yesterday we found a bar overlookingk the river with little bungalows and hammocks. We grabbed a beer, watched the sunset, and the bats come out to eat. In fact, we had one that kept flying through our bunglow. A little creepy but also super cool. Do you think they make good pets. A bat might make a vast improvement over our cat Lolita, but Piper might just think it's a squirell and go insane trying to chase it. Hmm, not. It was the ultimate moment of relaxation. Then we wandered back into town to find some dinner. Chris's ear led him to a pizza place playing reggae and who was there, our friends the Canadians. We meet again. We ate, hung out and then went back to the bar where they had 2 bon fires and music. It was a big party full of wasted, crazy kids. It was fun for a night but not something we'd be up for everynight. It just so weird being in another country but not feeling like you're in another country. Why? Why not? Fun times though and we were with fun people.
The weather was pretty crappy today, so we didn't go tubing or kayaking but will on our way back through. It's definately a party town. Within the first few minutes of being here we saw people stumbling, puking and peeing out in public...oh and a girl crying. Probably too many shots of lao-lao (rice whiskey), buckets, or too many "happy" shakes. Anything goes in this communist country. Most of the time we forget that it's communist. Go figure...except for the fact that all this partying must stop at midnight. That's when the curfew starts. So last night we shut the place down...whooohooo. And paid the price today. Chris managed to get up the energy to rent a bike and go on a 30 km bike ride....on a bike that was made for someone a foot shorter than him, but he made it work. He rode out to some caves and as he was riding along the road different villagers, kids, women, whoever, were waving and saying, "Saiwadee (hello)" to the oversized white guy with an afro on a bike. He loved it. Then he got off and walked to the caves. The first cave was filled with several budahs and budah's footprint. The second cave was led by a guide. I should let him tell you about it, since he experienced it, but he's burnt out from the trip and is currently laying in bed. Just resting his eyes...so he says.
So we've decided the Laos Lonely Planet book sucks. The prices are too low, directions are wrong and it uses terms such as "suposedly" and "it's rumored". Um, do your research and be sure. It has led us astray a few times and it says it was just published 5 months ago. I know things have been changing quickly here but it really feels like they are years behind. How Chris found the caves with their directions is a miracle, but he seems to work miracles when he needs...very resourceful guy that Chris. And I'm ending that rant on a positive note.
So tomorrow we move on to Ponsavaun to see the Plain of Jars and one of the most heavily bombed areas of Laos. It'll be a return trip for me but for Chris it'll be all new. I think he'll just think it's the bees knees. I'm not looking forward to the 7-8 hour public bus ride. On the public buses here you get your own security...some guy with an AK-47. Also, potty breaks are just the bus pulling over and you pee off the side of the road...no bushes or anything. It does usually have one lunch break at a rode side stand with a pay toilet which is a wet concrete slab squat toilet. I can't wait!!! Hey it's only 7 hours, not 13, but I forsee that in our near future. Oh, and the public bus pulls over for everyone and anyone on the side of the road. Not to metion the 2-3 motor bikes strapped to the roof and they get them up there with no ramp. That's a fun sight to see. What we've learned here, when it comes to transportation is, anything goes.
Until next time....H
The weather was pretty crappy today, so we didn't go tubing or kayaking but will on our way back through. It's definately a party town. Within the first few minutes of being here we saw people stumbling, puking and peeing out in public...oh and a girl crying. Probably too many shots of lao-lao (rice whiskey), buckets, or too many "happy" shakes. Anything goes in this communist country. Most of the time we forget that it's communist. Go figure...except for the fact that all this partying must stop at midnight. That's when the curfew starts. So last night we shut the place down...whooohooo. And paid the price today. Chris managed to get up the energy to rent a bike and go on a 30 km bike ride....on a bike that was made for someone a foot shorter than him, but he made it work. He rode out to some caves and as he was riding along the road different villagers, kids, women, whoever, were waving and saying, "Saiwadee (hello)" to the oversized white guy with an afro on a bike. He loved it. Then he got off and walked to the caves. The first cave was filled with several budahs and budah's footprint. The second cave was led by a guide. I should let him tell you about it, since he experienced it, but he's burnt out from the trip and is currently laying in bed. Just resting his eyes...so he says.
So we've decided the Laos Lonely Planet book sucks. The prices are too low, directions are wrong and it uses terms such as "suposedly" and "it's rumored". Um, do your research and be sure. It has led us astray a few times and it says it was just published 5 months ago. I know things have been changing quickly here but it really feels like they are years behind. How Chris found the caves with their directions is a miracle, but he seems to work miracles when he needs...very resourceful guy that Chris. And I'm ending that rant on a positive note.
So tomorrow we move on to Ponsavaun to see the Plain of Jars and one of the most heavily bombed areas of Laos. It'll be a return trip for me but for Chris it'll be all new. I think he'll just think it's the bees knees. I'm not looking forward to the 7-8 hour public bus ride. On the public buses here you get your own security...some guy with an AK-47. Also, potty breaks are just the bus pulling over and you pee off the side of the road...no bushes or anything. It does usually have one lunch break at a rode side stand with a pay toilet which is a wet concrete slab squat toilet. I can't wait!!! Hey it's only 7 hours, not 13, but I forsee that in our near future. Oh, and the public bus pulls over for everyone and anyone on the side of the road. Not to metion the 2-3 motor bikes strapped to the roof and they get them up there with no ramp. That's a fun sight to see. What we've learned here, when it comes to transportation is, anything goes.
Until next time....H
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Crazieness
Alot has happened since we last posted. We are currently in Luang Praban, Laos. The internet service here is incredibly slow. I have to remember we are in the middle of Laos, so any internet is just great. So much has happened recently I dont have enought time or space here to explain it all. The various stories are best left told over a few beers when we get home. I will however jot down some of the highlights in chronological order to the best of my recolection.
Fleeing Chaing Mai, Thailand with some Canadians we met to cross the Laotian border due to their Visa expiring in 12 hours.
Two part crowded bus trip to the boarder crossing.
Checking out of Thailand and crossing the Mekong river into Laos at the most sparse and unsecure boarder crossing imaginable.
Staying overnight in a remote yet fun Laotian town. Partying the night away with Canadians and Australians. The locals are so nice and fun.
Day 1 of a 2 day slow boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. The Canadians somehow purchased a used cooler from a local and filled it with beer and ice for the boat trip. We turned what otherwise would have been hours of torture into the Mekong Booze Cruise.
Day 1 boat #1 overfilled at the docks with people. Designed to hold 60-70 they filled it with over 100. After a near riot and capsizing the captain decided to load up a 2nd boat. So over the side we went into the adjacent boat tied up next to us. Of course all our bags were already packed into boat #1 and couldnt be retrieved. We didnt worry too much as long as the beer made it over we were OK.
Day 1 boat #2. So much fun, I have vague recolections of poker games, climbing on the roof of the boat, and no less then 40 beers consumed by us. The locals on the boat were quite ammused by us. I think they are used to seeing the traveling white man in extreme discomfort on this boat ride. Not us...It was a blast. Then somewhere in the middle of the jungle the engine decided to blow. I guess that happens when you take an old Toyota truck engine and transmission strap it down in the bottom of a boat and connnect a propeller to it.
Day 1 boat #3. We would have been in big trouble if an empty boat hadn't of come by when it did. I doubt any of the folks living in the bamboo shacks along the Mekong had the appropriate parts to fix our engine. So after just a few minutes of sitting idle we hopped onto boat #3. Start the party all over again.
We pulled into Pax Bang and spent the night. We were at the halfway point in our journey. This town was desinged to fleece the tourist. Absolute rip off. Still only $10 a night for accomodation, but it should have been more like $5 or so.
Day 2 boat #4. For some reason we are trasfered to the 4th boat of our trip. Maybe boat #3 sank in the middle of the night..who knows. Uneventful trip, everyone recovering from the day before. Undescribeable beauty along the Mekong. Absolutely unreal.
Luang Prabang. 4 days of absolute fun. By far our favorite town so far on our trip. Remnants of French architecture, beautiful Mekong river, awesome waterfall adventure and hike, cheap night market full of handmade local textiles.
Tomorrow we move 6 hours to the south to Vang Vien. Known for its beautiful streams and rivers we will be doing some tubing and kayaking. Cant wait.
Catch you on the flip side.
Fleeing Chaing Mai, Thailand with some Canadians we met to cross the Laotian border due to their Visa expiring in 12 hours.
Two part crowded bus trip to the boarder crossing.
Checking out of Thailand and crossing the Mekong river into Laos at the most sparse and unsecure boarder crossing imaginable.
Staying overnight in a remote yet fun Laotian town. Partying the night away with Canadians and Australians. The locals are so nice and fun.
Day 1 of a 2 day slow boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. The Canadians somehow purchased a used cooler from a local and filled it with beer and ice for the boat trip. We turned what otherwise would have been hours of torture into the Mekong Booze Cruise.
Day 1 boat #1 overfilled at the docks with people. Designed to hold 60-70 they filled it with over 100. After a near riot and capsizing the captain decided to load up a 2nd boat. So over the side we went into the adjacent boat tied up next to us. Of course all our bags were already packed into boat #1 and couldnt be retrieved. We didnt worry too much as long as the beer made it over we were OK.
Day 1 boat #2. So much fun, I have vague recolections of poker games, climbing on the roof of the boat, and no less then 40 beers consumed by us. The locals on the boat were quite ammused by us. I think they are used to seeing the traveling white man in extreme discomfort on this boat ride. Not us...It was a blast. Then somewhere in the middle of the jungle the engine decided to blow. I guess that happens when you take an old Toyota truck engine and transmission strap it down in the bottom of a boat and connnect a propeller to it.
Day 1 boat #3. We would have been in big trouble if an empty boat hadn't of come by when it did. I doubt any of the folks living in the bamboo shacks along the Mekong had the appropriate parts to fix our engine. So after just a few minutes of sitting idle we hopped onto boat #3. Start the party all over again.
We pulled into Pax Bang and spent the night. We were at the halfway point in our journey. This town was desinged to fleece the tourist. Absolute rip off. Still only $10 a night for accomodation, but it should have been more like $5 or so.
Day 2 boat #4. For some reason we are trasfered to the 4th boat of our trip. Maybe boat #3 sank in the middle of the night..who knows. Uneventful trip, everyone recovering from the day before. Undescribeable beauty along the Mekong. Absolutely unreal.
Luang Prabang. 4 days of absolute fun. By far our favorite town so far on our trip. Remnants of French architecture, beautiful Mekong river, awesome waterfall adventure and hike, cheap night market full of handmade local textiles.
Tomorrow we move 6 hours to the south to Vang Vien. Known for its beautiful streams and rivers we will be doing some tubing and kayaking. Cant wait.
Catch you on the flip side.
Friday, February 1, 2008
Night Trains and Chiang Mai
So our night train really wast that bad. At least for me anyway. I seem to be able to sleep just about anywhere. My sleeping birth was designed for someone of average Thai size which about 18" shorter then me. I guess really everything here is built for people 18" shorter then me. My head hits the roof when I have to stand inside the public train and inside the water taxi. It kinda gross really since my hair is basically scrubbing things that havent been cleaned since Nixon was president. Anyway I digress. The night train was fine, it might have been the multiple Beer Chaings I had, but I slept fine. It was a bit of a rought trip for Heather, but we lived.
Yesterday we visited the temple on the hill overlooking Chiang Mai and went out to Hmong tribe. The Hmong (pronounced Mong) are one of the many indigenous tribes that live in Southeast Asia. Just like indigenous people all over the world they have been segregated and treated as lesser citizens for years. It is only with the recent growth of tourism that has helped them tear away from their prior form of income which was the illegal growth and manufacure of opium. But this newfound tourism comes a price. It seems strange wandering through a village that has lived the same way for centuries staring at them as though we were at a zoo. And of course they all want to sell you something. But it was overall a good experience. The Hmong actualy have quite a large community in California stretching from Fresno to Chico. Durring the Vietnam war the CIA and Special Forces trained the Hmong as guirilla fighters to combat the North Vietnamese Army and Kahmir Rouge. Of course when the US withdred the Hmong had to stay and suffer the consequences of their assistance to us. So the US allowed any that could get out a chance at assylum in sunny California. I have no I idea why Fresno, it seems alot different then the climate here in the mountains of Northers Thailand.
So today was our Thai cooking class. Im not sure if we will be able to remember all that we learned today, But I hope so. It lasted all day and we of course ate everything we made. It was alot of food and soooooo good. We still struggle with controlling how spicy things get. My mouth deffinately burned after a few of the dishes.
Tomorrow we take a bus to the norther bordern town of Chiang Khong. We spend the night there then take a boat across the Mekong River. Then upstream into Laos. After that who knows. No plans. We havent even bought our plane tickets to Egypt yet. We totally take it day by day. So far I love Thailand.
Yesterday we visited the temple on the hill overlooking Chiang Mai and went out to Hmong tribe. The Hmong (pronounced Mong) are one of the many indigenous tribes that live in Southeast Asia. Just like indigenous people all over the world they have been segregated and treated as lesser citizens for years. It is only with the recent growth of tourism that has helped them tear away from their prior form of income which was the illegal growth and manufacure of opium. But this newfound tourism comes a price. It seems strange wandering through a village that has lived the same way for centuries staring at them as though we were at a zoo. And of course they all want to sell you something. But it was overall a good experience. The Hmong actualy have quite a large community in California stretching from Fresno to Chico. Durring the Vietnam war the CIA and Special Forces trained the Hmong as guirilla fighters to combat the North Vietnamese Army and Kahmir Rouge. Of course when the US withdred the Hmong had to stay and suffer the consequences of their assistance to us. So the US allowed any that could get out a chance at assylum in sunny California. I have no I idea why Fresno, it seems alot different then the climate here in the mountains of Northers Thailand.
So today was our Thai cooking class. Im not sure if we will be able to remember all that we learned today, But I hope so. It lasted all day and we of course ate everything we made. It was alot of food and soooooo good. We still struggle with controlling how spicy things get. My mouth deffinately burned after a few of the dishes.
Tomorrow we take a bus to the norther bordern town of Chiang Khong. We spend the night there then take a boat across the Mekong River. Then upstream into Laos. After that who knows. No plans. We havent even bought our plane tickets to Egypt yet. We totally take it day by day. So far I love Thailand.
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